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New Zealand Self-drive
Travelogue
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I, and 3 of my friends, scheduled a 12-night
New Zealand self-drive thru the majestic and pristine countryside of both North
& South Islands. I have tried to include the many miles of details which I feel
would be helpful in comprehending travel dynamics of New Zealand. If you
have any questions about traveling to this region, please email to:
Info@ytravelc.com |
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North Island |
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AUCKLAND,
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Going thru customs upon arrival was a
breeze, but there was an oddity in the program, my bags had to be x-rayed
leaving the airport. This procedure is endured to find out what, if anything
unusual, New Zealand’s visitors are brining into the country.
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After checking in with the car rental
agency, we consulted a map to find out directions to downtown, harborside
Auckland. Having spent the last x number of years driving on the correct side of
the road, I wondered how long it would take to acclimate to driving on the left
hand side. The first honors were given to Rick. He didn’t seem to have a
difficult time with the new routine, but having a co-pilot, giving directives
was essential.
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We choose the 4-star Hyatt Regency hotel,
located only a 10min. walk downhill from Queens St, a row of strip malls which
contain a good selection of shops.. It was only a 15-min walk from the harbour,
where the ferries depart.
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Auckland, unfortunately, is a wide city,
which is very spread out. Except for Queens St. and the harbor, there is no
compact place for people to gather. Most people opt to go to Davenport, a quaint
area full of cafes and few shops, which seems to populate in the evening.
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I recommend at least one night and one day
here in Auckland, before venturing north or south. This is also a great place
to experience a sailing day trip on the harbour, where the great regatta races
have transpired.
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COROMANDEL PENINSULA (east
of Auckland)
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It doesn’t take much driving to leave the
concrete jungle behind and start seeing the real attraction that is New Zealand.
Rolling hills greet us as we head to the Coromendal Peninsula, which is lush and
green. This is our first
sighting of sheep, which will become an integral part of the landscape. Our
destination is Whitiagna, a beachside resort town. There are but a few cities
that dot this area and New Zealand’s version of a city, is a few blocks of
strip mall shops, a pub and gas station..
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The drive here takes us thru miles of
rolling hills, and at one point, we hug the coastal road for a an hour or so. The
windy, road, may prove to be nauseating for some, but always scenic. Its
reminiscent of the Carmel coast in the U.S, only much less traffic. We stopped
by the small town of Thames and had a bite at one of the local cafes. Try the
toasted sandwiches and hot chocolate.
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There are only a few hotels here, so I
recommend making reservations if you are coming in the months of Dec. thru Feb, which
is high season. Fortunately, being mid-October, considered shoulder
season, we didn’t have much problem finding good accommodations. If you want
to face the water, expect to pay.
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The next day, we headed to the most famous
site called, Cathedral Cove. – a rock formation with a hole in it, set on a
beautiful, isolated beach. This sight entails a 3-km/return trek to the beach.
The grade at times, can be 70 degrees. The footpath, hugs the coastal
hills, and travels thru cow pastures. When scheduling a trip to this Cove, make sure that
you arrive before high tide, which, if you miss it it will drown out the hole. High tide varies
depending on the season, but its usually arrives in the afternoon.
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A short drive from there to Pihia, the beach where you
can dig your own spa in the sand.. It sounds odd, but you come prepared with a shovel and at a
certain tide level, you are allowed to dig into the beach sand to uncover a hot
spring, which will become your own bathwater spa.
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WAITOMO
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75 miles south from the city of Hamilton
lies the popular Waitomo, known for its glow worm grotto and caves. This
area essentially contains only a few buildings, which house the tourist
companies, a few restaurants, a hotel, a youth hostel, an angora rabbit shop and
of course, the caves. Besides the Glow worm caves, this area is popular for
Abseiling, which is repelling to you and I. You may have seen episodes on
the ‘Amazing Race and the Eco-challenge’ where people dangled on a robe,
suspended 100 feet above the ground, in a dark cave. This is the best
place in New Zealand to try this sport.
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They dress you up like a coal-miner, (hat
with light included) add a harness to the outfit and then drive you a few miles
to begin your adventure. My tour outfit, “Downunder Waitomo Tours’ offered a
2-hr repelling trip, just the right duration for a first timer. Other outfits
tours were 3 hrs or longer. If you are afraid of heights, this is a great occasion to finally get over and beyond it. I almost gave up twice from going
thru with the rappel, but my guide’s encouragement gave
me the confidence to go through with the rappel.. He was right, once at the bottom, I
felt a surge of pride in having accomplished this task, now for the vertical
climb up…
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Another exciting, yet unusual adventure, is
called ‘black water rafting’, which is you, in a wetsuit, on a inner tub in a
dark cave, paddling around for about 2 hrs. I was told that the actual activity
is more exciting in real life than on paper.
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ROTORUA
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This well-known destination is 1.5 hrs from
Waitomo. There is nothing between Waitomo and Rotorua except kilometers of windy
roads. Rotorua is a 2 night stop. You’ll find may tour buses here camped out
for the evening, while visitors tour the Geysers, mud-pool, and experience a
unique Maora Cultural show and Hangi dinner, which many of the hotels offer
their guests.
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There is a plethora of hotels to choose from
but I advise choosing one, which is close to the main street, which is Fenton
(between Victoria & the Tourist Info Ctr) Here you'll be close to the shops and
restaurants which seem to make up most of the downtown. There are many
self-contained units that off a kitchen, pool and outdoor spas. There is a large
scenic lake, called Lake Rotorua. This lake is apprx 15 min. walk from the
shopping center shopping district. Here you can choose to take a helicopter or
seaplane tour. Its also a famous lake for fishing.
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Since Rotorua has a lot of thermal
activity, you can expect to find a few thermal reserve spas close by. One which
is located in the center of Rotorua , is the Polynesian Spas. This spa offers 8
pools and private hot tubs, as well as a menu of message therapies. The cost is
15 NZ.
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Hell’s Gate, a destination full of thermal
Reserves, Geysers, waterfalls and bubbling mud-pools. Cost is $16Nz. Since its
located outside the city, you will need a car or the Hell’s Gate transfer to get
there. This place allows for some terrific snapshots.
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TAUPO
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If you are fond of the Lake Placid or
Vermont settings, then you’ll appreciate the picturesque lakeside town called
Taupo. A short 45-min. from Rotorua. A very attractive, town, with a layout that
utilizes the central feature, which is the Lake. This a good place to do some
shopping and have a lovely meal along the waterfront. If your passing through,
then I recommend spending a min. of one night here before traveling on. Expect
it to be very busy if majestic mountains surround its Ski season, as the lovely
lake as far as the eye can see. There are a lot of choice accommodations, which
surround this stunning lake.
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WELLINGTON, Capital city
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Since we hadn’t planned to see such an
attractive city at Taupo along our self-drive, we didn’t have the time to stay
the night. Next time I tell myself. 4 ˝ hrs drive south, thru the snow peaked
mountain ranges of Taupo, lies Wellington, the second largest city in New
Zealand, behind Auckland. This is the capital city and a windy one at that. The
city is built along the harbor, and many of the streets, which ascend upwards
from the harbor are reminiscent of San Francisco.
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The city center is rich with shopping malls,
restaurants and entertainment centers. This is also the point of departure for
the inter-island ferry. There is a road that hugs the harbor is a must, if you
have a car. If not, then perhaps a car rental for the day would be ideal. We
stayed a hillside hotel, called the Kingsgate Oriental Bay. Request a bar view
room and you’ll have unlimited views of the city to your left and the harbor
straight ahead.
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INTER-ISLAND FERRY
FROM NORTH TO SOUTH ISLANDS
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The North Island ferry station is only apprx
5 miles from the city ctr. There are rental car drop-off companies located
directly outside the ferry entrance. For those that have rented cars from
agencies which offer North & south island drop-off/pick-up, this is ideal. In
essence you’d only have to pay for yourself to be transferred and the $170 Nz
fee for your car. . If you are crossing during peak times (Dec. thru March), its
highly recommended you book your ferry transfer in advance. There are two
ferries that traverse Cooks Striate. One is the Lynx ferry, which will take you
from one island to the next
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South Island |
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NELSON
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As we departed the ferry, we headed to the
baggage pick-up area. After receiving our bags, the convenient car rental
agency, located across the parking lot was our next stop. It took only a few
min. to produce the Toyota Camry we reserved. Fortunately, this car had more
trunk space than the Holden Commodore. Since we had an extra passenger and
luggage for this stop, this was a great thing.
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Nelson is a short 2 hr drive from the ferry
station in Picton. On the drive, the ocean is passed on the right side, which
made the drive more enjoyable. The city of Nelson is a growing city. There are
even many US turned New Zealand citizens setting up house here. It provides
perfect ground to grow grapes, therefore there are a lot of wine tours offered
in this city.
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The city ctr consists of a few streets
filled with your typical New Zealand strip mall structures. There is a good
variety of restaurants, shops and even a 4 screen movie theater. Many hotels are
within close proximity of the ctr area. There are plenty of bars to keep the
locals active in the evenings.
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Nelson is also the gateway to the lovely
Able Tasman National Park offering many water activities and hiking
opportunities. We took this opportunity to try our hand at kayaking. I had tried
river and lake kayaking but not the ultimate, ocean kayaking. The kayak
itself was unlike the prior two, with skirts attached to keep the ocean waves
from ending up in the kayak. There were a few companies on the beach when we got
there, however, we had made reservations with one particular company ahead of
time as kayaking is scheduled at particular times and kayaks are limited.
Because of the high/low tide effect, in the fall, one needs to return the kayaks
by 430pm.
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GREYMOUTH
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After two lovely nights and a terrific
breakfast, we packed up the car, yet again and headed south, touring the West
coast. Greymouth is the start/stop of the scenic Trans Alpine train, which
departs from Christchurch. The drive is apprx a 4 hr windy drive from Nelson
and 4 ˝ hrs from Christchurch. The drive from Nelson, and provides terrific
scenes of the open ocean. The main hotel is the Kingsgate, which is located
facing the ocean and one of the few hotels in the city. There are several
motels located further south of the city, which is where we decided to spend the
night.
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FRANZ JOSEF VILLAGE
& GLACIERS
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The next morning we prepared to drive to
Franz Josef, the location of the ever popular Franz Josef Glaciers. Franz
Josef is 160km/2.5 hrs from Greymouth. When making this drive, prepare to be
awed by the spectacular scenery with opportunities to venture down toward the
water. There is one tourist site called Pancake Rock that is worth a look. The
walk is apprx 30 min. one-way, down to a configuration of rock formations.
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The village of Franz Josef is apprx 2
sparse, streets long and extends inland with the majority of hotels located a
short distance from the main road. Unfortunately, it was raining the entire days
drive, so it it was not possible to take an helicopter rides. There are a few
Glacier walks accessibility from the main road. Walks range from 30 min. to
several hours. One doesn’t’ have to travel far to see an actual Glacier.
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If you have prebooked a helicopter type tour
and it is raining, it is possible to either get a refund or postpone it to the
following day. I recommend staying one night here or in Fox Glacier to get the
full effect of this unique region.
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FOX GLACIER
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20min. you’ll find the 2nd most
popular glacier, Fox Glacier. The city is more dense than Franz Josef and offers
a larger variety of hotels and restaurants. The buildings are located, off the
main road and thus offer a more private surroundings.
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WANAKA
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It was a long days drive from Greymouth to
Wanaka, so this is where we decided to rest for the night. This city encompasses
the same landscape as Queenstown, a sort of sister city to it. The city
encircles a beautiful lake with snow-capped mountains as the back drop. There
are several hotels located next to the lake, offering exceptional views from
your hotel. I recommend spending the extra money to stay there.
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Since this is a much smaller city than
Queenstown, and everything is so close to each other, your chances of obtaining
a lakefront room are much better. Wanaka offers all the same activities, that
Queenstown does.
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QUEENSTOWN
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8-hours from Franz Josef, we find the
spectacular city of Queenstown. For the ultimate in scenic attractiveness, this
is the most beautiful city in all of New Zealand. The city lies on an
expansive lake called Lake Wakatipa This road leading
around this lake, travels past numerous hotels that have a prime location
on or across the street from the Lake. The town compromises of several long
blocks of shops, restaurants, coffee houses, internet cafes and several tour
operators.
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This city is accurately referred to as the
‘adventure capital of the word’. If you know of something thrill-seeking to do,
you can bet this Queenstown offers it. Since it was my birthday when I arrived
into the city, and the weather was gorgeous, my courageous friend and I decided
to try Tandem Skydiving. We went with the main skydiving outfit in town, called
Nzone. Once a time is scheduled, a bus picks you up and drives you to their
permanent skydiving site. After suiting up and meeting my parachutist for the
day, we boarded a twin engine plane. We took the most popular jump which was
12000ft. once I was out of the plane, the hard part was over and all that was
left was to enjoy the stunning below. If anyone is interested in trying this
thrill, I recommend that you try it ONLY in this city, as the scenery on the way
down is incomparable.
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There have been several thrill seeking
originals here, such as the first. Bungy Jump and Shotover river experience. I
highly recommend you try one of the other before departing this city.
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Spending 3 nights and days here, especially
in the New Zealand summer and spring time are a must! The city is very
pedestrian friendly, so a car is not necessary to have here. If you choose a
hotel on the water, there are plenty that are at most a 20 min. walk to the city
ctr.
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CHRISTCHURCH
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Our final city was the quaint,
garden city of Christchurch, the largest city on the South island. There are
many days trips offered from this city, so making it a base is an excellent
idea. The city’s main area is the Square and staying at a hotel, near this
Square is idea.
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The drive from Queenstown is apprx 7 hrs.
thru fairly straight terrain. The drive takes you past Mt. Cook, the tallest
mountain in New Zealand. Here you can choose to drive to the Glaciers, crossing
to the South island to the west. We encountered a herd of sheep, with no
apparent Shepard leading them. Since they were not trying to cross the street
but run with traffic on the street, it took a good 15 min. for the ‘traffic’ to
clear. As you can imagine, the photos opps. Were incredible.
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The city of Christchurch is a sprawling
city, with the ctr offering much in terms of shopping, hotels and restaurants.
This too is a very pedestrian friendly city, which makes having a car a
non-necessity. There is no need for a car here either as it offers good
transport in the form of Trams – very efficient. Parking can be a problem and
will cost.
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Staying at the elegant Heritage hotel
(located next to the Millennium hotel) offered us a prime location, right on the Square.
The airport, which has shuttles, from many of the downtown hotels, is apprx 20
min. away.
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